everything, including track and weather conditions. On a cold
morning the tires aren’t sticky but you have more horsepower so
you have to drive accordingly.”
Tom tries to hit the track about four or five times a year. Many
of the events are hosted by the Shelby American Auto Club, a non-
profit organization that rents track time and opens its events to the
public. At most track events, Tom and other drivers typically drive
in five or six sessions each day.
For 30 years, Tom has raced with the same number, 289. “It’s
the same as the size of my engine!” In other words, the engine
block is 289 cubic inches.
If he could, Tom said he would spend more time in his garage,
building or rebuilding his engines. But he admitted, “there’s only
one problem, my wife Louise would have a fit!”
The former Silicon Valley manufacturer’s rep and sales engineer
has been racing since 1982 and has seven first-place finishes at the
Virginia City Hill Climb alone. He has also raced at the Coronado
Speed Festival during Fleet Week in San Diego, the famous
Monterey Historics, and the Wine Country Classic.
Tom wrapped up our talk with a big grin and said simply, “I’ll
keep racing as long as I can. It’s so exhilarating.”
Tom’s Maintenance Tips
Without The Sales Pitch
Recently, Morgan Hill Rotary Club invited Tom Fry to share his
tried and true automotive tips for the average car owner.
According to Tom, “All modern cars are good for 200,000-plus
miles. I say why not make them last longer, be more reliable and
safer? Of course, cars vary widely, as do the habits of the folks who
drive them, so there are no absolutes. But here are some tips from a
guy who’s not trying to sell you anything.”
ENGINE OIL
There are basically three types of oil. Conventional, synthetic, and a
blend of the two. Synthetic oil truly is a better oil. All high-end cars
come from the factory with synthetic oil already added. All race cars
use synthetic oil. It’s more slippery and handles much higher and
lower temperatures better. It can also slightly improve gas mileage.
Synthetic oil costs at least twice as much as conventional oil. The
synthetic/conventional blend is more affordably priced.
Conventional oil only needs to be changed about every 7,000
miles (not 3,000, as oil changers recommend). Synthetic oil can be
changed every 10,000 miles. When choosing oil viscosity, it’s best
to follow the car manufacturer’s recommendation. Once your car
has logged 150,000 or more miles, go one level thicker. Example:
If the manufacturer recommends 5-20, go to 10-30. However,
never go thicker than 30 if your car uses a catalytic converter.
TUNE UP
Today’s spark plugs should last 100,000 miles. Don’t let anyone
fool you…there is nothing else to tune up!!!
TRANSMISSION
The transmission is generally the weak link in an automotive
system. If you use conventional transmission fluid, flush it every
50,000 miles. If you use synthetic, flush at 100,000 miles. If you
use a vehicle for towing or pulling a load, use synthetic and flush at
50,000 miles or less.
GILROY • MORGAN HILL • SAN MARTIN
BATTERY
A car or truck battery should be good for four to five years, but
don’t expect more! Pay attention to how your car starts up every
day. If the engine seems to be turning over slower, and the battery
is four years old, the battery is shot. Replace it.
BRAKES
Pads – Brake pads are generally good for 100,000 miles. But, I’ve
seen them wear out anywhere from 20,000 to 150,000 miles. Have
someone check them periodically. Some cars have sensors con-
nected to an indicator light on your dashboard. Listen for unusual
squeaks or grinding noises, which may indicate worn pads. New
pads are 14 millimeters (mm) thick. At 3 mm, they should be
replaced. So when your mechanic says you have XX mm of pad
left, you can judge what that means. It’s best to buy pads from
the car dealer and avoid those made by third party manufacturers,
which are more likely to make noise.
Rotors – If your steering wheel wobbles when you apply the brakes,
your rotors probably need to be turned (once only) or replaced.
Adjustments – There are NONE.
TIRES
Air Pressure – Use the pressure indicated on the driver’s side door
sticker, not the pressure on the tire sidewall. Tires are made for use
on a wide range of vehicles. It’s primarily the vehicle’s weight that
determines the proper pressure.
Tires should typically be replaced at 50,000-60,000 miles, or a
MAXIMUM of seven years. Old tires are very prone to dangerous
blow outs. Even if your old tires look almost new, replace them.
Look for the date code on the tire’s sidewall. It’s a four digit num-
ber. For example: 2713 means the tire was manufactured on the
27 th week of 2013.
Rotate your tires every 20,000 miles. Rotate front to back, NOT
diagonally (like an X). On cars with all-wheel or 4-wheel drive,
replace all of the tires at once. It is important that all four are the
exact same diameter.
ALIGNMENT
The ONLY alignment now is toe in. Everything else is fixed! Don’t
spend money needlessly. Alignment of existing tires should only be
needed if tires are wearing unevenly. Feel the tires for rough edges
on the tread.
WIPERS
This is a personal preference, but replacing blades at least every
other year is advisable. Immediately, if they are damaged. If you
enjoy Tahoe or other cold weather destinations in the winter, get
low temperature washer fluid so it doesn’t freeze! It may be easier
to find at retailers closer to Tahoe.
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
This means something is wrong and you need to get it diagnosed.
This light is used for a broad range of issues. Generally not an
emergency. A common problem, and one to check first, is to make
sure your fuel cap is in place, and screwed on properly!!! If you’re
lucky, that’s all it is.
MAY/JUNE 2016
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