By Alicia Cuadra

During the fermentation of still wine, carbon dioxide is released from the fermenting liquid into the air. If it is prevented from escaping, however, it will remain dissolved in the wine until it is exposed to oxygen again. This is, in essence, how sparkling wines get their bubbles. This can be achieved primarily in two ways; in the bottle, called the Traditional Method or Methode Traditionelle; or in a tank, called Charmat or Tank method.

For the Traditional Method, after the wine has undergone fermentation, it is put into bottles. Before being sealed with a crown cap, a small amount of sugar, yeast, and nutrients called“ Liquer di Tirage” is put into each bottle.

The bottles are then stored with the necks facing down, and over time and with a bit of human intervention to help move the sediment, the yeasts will settle into the top of the bottle. The amount of time the wine is left this way, in contact with the lees, or spent yeast, depends on the producer and region of origin. Generally six months to three years, but aging“ Sur Lie” can go for much longer.

When the time is right, the wine is then“ disgorged,” and the sediment from the yeast is removed. This is done by putting the neck of the bottle into a sort of freeze bath and popping the cap to allow the sediment to come out. The bottle is then filled with a small amount of wine, and immediately re-sealed with

the champagne corks with which we are so familiar.

The difference between this and the Tank Method: in the Tank Method the second fermentation occurs in a large tank all at one time, and is then bottled. As opposed to fermenting each bottle individually, this method is much less time consuming and can produce some great wines such as Prosecco.

The Traditional Method has been used for centuries in Champagne, France, where it is called the Methode Champenoise. Made mostly from Pinot Noir, Pinot Meuiner, and Chardonnay; these wines have a history, dating back to the 17th century. With the popularity of Champagne and the rise of California Wines in the 1960s and 1970s, it’ s no wonder many American producers started making wines in this method and labeling them“ Champagne.”

However, Champagne is truly a protected name to be used only for wines from the Champagne region of France, and a labeling law in 2005 clarified this for consumers. No longer were new producers of California sparkling wines allowed to call their products“ Champagne.” The caveat to this law was that producers that had indeed been making these wines and labeling them“ Champagne” before the law was enacted could continue to use the term“ California Champagne.” Guglielmo Winery in Morgan Hill is an example. Since they had been making Champagne-style wines decades before the laws changed, they could continue to produce California Champagne.

Guglielmo routinely offers its“ Emile’ s California Champagne,” and my favorite“ Emile’ s Grand Cuvee,” both multivintage blends of unique grapes that are consistently delicious. Most sparkling wines are made with wine from multiple years, to help keep them consistent. Only in exceptional years is this style of wine made with a vintage date, indicating the year of harvest. Guglielmo recently released a single vintage sparkling made from 100 % Chardonnay grapes, and their 2000 Methode Champenoise is a great example of what aged vintage sparkling wine can be; savory bruised pear with a nutty and almost sherry-like oxidation. The wine is smooth and complex, and evolves in the glass.

Sarah’ s Vineyard in Gilroy also recently released a Sparkling wine, made in the Methode Champenois. The grapes here are the three traditionally seen in Champagne, and are a multi-vintage blend. This wine is at the other end of the spectrum; crisp with more fresh and tart citrus and stone fruit characteristics. There are still elements of toast and minerality, and the wine is refreshing and great with oysters. These two sparkling wines are great examples of the opposite sides of the Champagne spectrum.

I recommend using a regular wine glass to really appreciate the aromatic complexities and flavors of Traditional Method wines, but flutes are fun too. I also recommend that everybody drink more sparkling wines overall. Cheers.

Alicia Cuadra is a Wine Educator and Consultant in the Monterey Bay. She is a certified Sommelier, Certified Specialist of Wine and Italian Wine Professional. Follow her blog at AliciaSeesWine. com and on social media @ AliciaSeesWine.

70

GILROY • MORGAN HILL • SAN MARTIN MARCH / APRIL 2017 gmhtoday. com